Mikihisa氏から借りていたEOSKissDigitalを返却するために渋谷まで足を運ぶ。
三十過ぎたオッサン二人がカメラ渡してさようなら、とはならないので軽く飲むことに。最初は最近密かに行っている若者集まる立ち飲み屋で飲んでいた。そして立っているのもつらい時間になり、場所を変えようということで「のんべえ横町」へ。
私は一度ものんべえ横町というのは行ったことがなかった（※新宿のゴールデン街しかり）。渋谷が飲み歩きのホームグラウンドの一つなって15年ほどになるので意外と言えば意外なんだがどうもハードルが高いイメージだった。
どの街に行ってもどんな飲み屋街に行こうともさほどひるまないタイプではあるが渋谷という場所柄とその雰囲気に負けていた。ここで言う「雰囲気」とは歴史だったりその歴史を作り上げてきた人だったりする。
それで全部で41軒の飲み屋が連なる一角を二周ほどし、めぼしい店を探す。
デビュー戦は大事だ。
それぞれの店の中を覗く。どの店も値段を外には出していない。満席の店もあればガラガラの店もある。すると店の前で呼び込みしているおばちゃんがいた。
こういうときはまずは軽く話しかけ、この街に溶け込むとっかかりを探すのが私のスタイル。
感じの良さそうなおばちゃんで、いろいろ聞いてみると値段もさほど高くないらしい。
まずはここから始めようと、おばちゃんに促されるまま店内に。店の広さは一坪ほどで五人も座れば満席だ。
ひとまずビールを頼む。当然「瓶ビール」だ。この瓶ビールというのはその店のやる気を計るバロメーターとして使える。ポイントは「冷え具合」だ。冷たいだけではダメで、キンキンなのが理想といえる。また、供されるグラスも冷やされていれば完璧だ。
まずまず合格レベル。
ビールを飲みながらあれやこれやと「街のルール」を教わることにした。
こういう「初めての店と街」では「教えを請う態度」が重要だ。こちらは客だからと言って横柄な態度は御法度である。楽しく飲むためには店主を心地よくする努力も必要だ。
恐らくこの点に関して私は天才的な能力を持っている。
さっそくいろいろお聞きした。
基本的にここは組合があってちゃんと全体を管理しているという。トイレもきちんと整備されているし、一帯の掃除も行き届いている。料理も飲み物もだいたい500円前後で統一されているとのこと。また、建物はそれぞれ大家さんが別々で複雑だったりする。
古い店だと60年もの歴史がある。このお店は「まだ25年なの」と謙遜気味に女将は言う。
いやいや25年って言ったら、大変な歴史の積み重ねでしょう。
この女将はこの店を開けるまで水商売というのをしたことが無く、最初は何をどうしたものやら全く分からなく、しかも開店したのが昭和60年1月1日で、新日鐵釜石のラグビー部の皆さんが最初の客だったという。
その日は元旦でラグビーの試合帰りだったようだ。その中にいたのが往年の名選手松尾雄治。元旦ゆえに周囲の店はどこもやっておらず、それで流れ着いたのがここだった。
その日は結局20人ほどでやって来て10万円置いて帰って言ったという。そしても今も新日鐵釜石の皆さんと交流があるという。
こういう話を聞くと私のような若輩ものはただただ「歴史の重さ」を感じるしかない。
それで一通りこの街のルールや流儀を習ったらこっちのもんである。この店をあとにもう一軒くらい寄りたくなった。嫌がるMikihisa氏を連れて今度は若い雰囲気の店、しかも店内がほぼ満席状態のところ半ば強引に入り込む。
窮屈な店でしかも一見の客だ。店主の女性には怪訝な顔をされる。この明らかに「怪しい一見の客」は一体何をしに来たんだ？そんな視線である。そしてこの店には「メニュー」はあるが値段が書かれていない。たぶんこの界隈には「値段を表示する」という慣習は無いのかも知れない。
でも、このときすでに「街のルール」を知っているので怖いことはない。
客層はクリエイティブな感じの若者やら外人。基本的に常連しかいないような店だ。と言っても座っているの客が5人で立っている客が3人だ。客と店主は馴染みの様子。
ちなみにこのアウェイ感が嫌いではない。
常連になるのも悪くはないのだが、この、店のど真ん中で疎外感を感じつつ、周囲の常連客の視線にさらされながら互いに「きっかけ」を待つ雰囲気が好きだ。
今さらではあるが渋谷で飲むときのバリエーションが増えた。
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